Neon everything... but Bibles: The Strip

CITY GUIDE

gallery curators, musicians, politicians, and business owners who dish and deal over hummus,

Greek salad, dolmas, and seasoned fries (the best in town).

After all that culinary ecstasy, wander over to the Hookah

Lounge for a post-lunch smoke. (702-731-6030)

Paradise Rd., ⁷⁰²-⁷⁹¹-⁵⁷⁷⁵), the Las Vegas home for punk and rockabilly and a potent

cocktail called Ass Juice, as well as a gross-until-you-try-it

bacon martini.

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72 HOURS IN

Las Vegas

Dinner FIREFLY 3900 Paradise Rd.

Vegas isn’t all giant slabs of prime rib—there’s also a host

of international dining options that are often overlooked, and

tapas bars may soon outnumber topless bars. Order several

Spanish appetizer-style dishes, like the popular tortilla à la

española (eggs, potatoes, chili vinaigrette, onion, and garlic), and wash them down with

Firefly’s signature sangria. (702-369-3971)

Breakfast MR. LUCKY’S 24/7 4455 Paradise Rd.

The de facto coffee shop of the Hard Rock Hotel, Mr. Lucky’s is

guaranteed to have the comfort breakfast food to restore

function to your senses, with plenty of healthy options for any

gym bunnies. Hate your health? Then order the not-on-the-menu

Gambler’s Special, which includes steak and shrimp—it may not be

breakfast food, but busting on slots requires protein. (702-693-5592)

What happens in Vegas might not stay in Vegas much longer.

Bands like the Killers and Panic! At the Disco have widened

the cultural scope of America’s Playground, while October’s

Vegoose festival gives music fans something to do here besides

blow their tuition money on craps. That said, there’s still plenty

of old Sin City to relish. Whether you’re into haute couture or

hedonism, Vegas has got your back. BY MIKE PREVAT T

Evening ZUMANITY New York–New York Hotel & Casino, ³⁷⁹⁰ S. Las Vegas Blvd.

Cirque du Soleil brought postmodern eroticism to the Strip, but the main show is a

kiddie-puppet parade compared with its oft-naked offshoot Zumanity. The ¹⁸-and-over display of sensual acrobatics

and performance art is also one of the most reasonably priced

tickets in town, starting at (giggle!) $69. (866-606-7111)

Getting There

At the south end of the Strip is McCarran International, the sixth-

busiest airport in the U.S. Taxis run 24 hours throughout the city. Less efficient is the Las Vegas Monorail,

though there are a number of smaller, free trains that connect

various hotels and casinos. Rental

cars—also available at McCarran—

are useful only for trips to the city’s outskirts or for pretending

you’re Dr. Gonzo.

Lunch TINOCO’S BISTRO Arts Factory, ¹⁰³ E. Charleston Blvd.

The fine-dining eatery of choice for Vegas’ creative types—the

Killers have been known to nosh—Tinoco’s (702-464-5008) thrives in the heart of the Arts District, serving its “modern urban continental” fare among

eclectic pieces by local artists. You can sample more Nevada-

centric work down the hall, in the Arts Factory’s various

galleries ( theartsfactory.com).

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WHERE TO STAY
ARTISAN HOTEL

1501 W. Sahara Ave.

Forget Wynn and Bellagio;

the true class of Las Vegas is

the delightfully understated

Artisan. Off the Strip but

in the heart of the city, the

intimate resort boasts fine

art, DJ parties, and a heavenly

spa at affordable rates. From $¹¹⁹. (702-214-4000)

GOLDEN NUGGET

129 E. Fremont St.

Downtown’s crown gem has

been rejuvenated with a

handful of new lounges and

a pool area known as “The

Tank,” highlighted by a three-

story waterslide that snakes

through a shark aquarium. From $⁵⁹. (800-846-5336)

Breakfast
HASH HOUSE A GO GO
6800 W. Sahara Ave.

Ignore that urge to eat at the casino’s buffet and take a trip to

this local fave, where traditional Indiana farm breakfasts get a modern tweak. Want to reenact

Leaving Las Vegas? Choose the O’Hare of the Dog, a brown-

bagged 24-ounce Budweiser served alongside a plate of bacon. (702-804-4646)

Lunch

PAYMON’S
MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ
& LOUNGE
4147 S. Maryland Pkwy.

If you want a glimpse of the

who’s who in Las Vegas—outside of Carrot Top and Robin Leach—

Paymon Raouf’s Middle Eastern restaurant is the power-lunch

hub for nightclub managers,

Late Night It’s got a booming sound system

and a trance-inducing LED ceiling, but the big draw of Jet (Mirage, ³⁴⁰⁰ S. Las Vegas Blvd., 702-791-7416) is the opportunity to stock up on paparazzi shots, as Paris Hilton and Jenna Jameson

are regulars. If that sounds a little too Entourage, there’s always the Double Down Saloon (4640

Midmorning

Get your first dose of genuine culture at Las Vegas Art Museum (⁹⁶⁰⁰ W. Sahara Ave., ⁷⁰²-³⁶⁰- 8000), one of the city’s largest visual-art complexes. Or if you prefer gawking at nature’s grandeur, work off breakfast at Red Rock Canyon (702-515-5350, redrockcanyonlv.org), Southern

Nevada’s prime spot for hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing,

and critter-spotting.

Afternoon

If you’re into high-end clothes

and even more into model types, Fashion Show (3200 S. Las Vegas Blvd., 702-784-7000) should be your destination. It’s a huge shopping oasis, with Paul Frank,

Apple, and Diesel drawing the
cool kids. At downtown’s Las
Vegas Premium Outlets (⁸⁷⁵
S. Grand Central Pkwy., 702-
⁴⁷⁴-⁷⁵⁰⁰), Theory, Coach, and
French Connection, among
others, sell their wares at
clearance prices. If you’re
brandphobic, stop by the
Attic (1018 S. Main St.,
702-388-4088) for the most
eclectic vintage clothing,
accessories, and furniture

in town. (Don’t fret: The $1 entrance fee goes toward your first

purchase.)

Swig a bacon martini (right) at the Double Down Saloon .

Dinner LITTLE BUDDHA The Palms Casino Resort, ⁴³²¹ W. Flamingo Rd.

Authentic Eastern music and a

truckload of statues

FROM TOP: GEORGE ROSE/GE T T Y IMAGES; MARK T. ZEILMAN (BO T TLE AND BAR)